Niacinamide was the most searched skincare ingredient in 2021, but years on… was it an overhyped trend, or has it stood the test of time?
We’ll explore if niacinamide is still a hero ingredient by explaining what it is, what it does, who it helps, what it’s used for – and how to make sure you’re using the right amount.
What is Niacinamide?
Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a form of Vitamin B3. It’s a water-soluble vitamin that the body can’t produce on its own, so we usually have to get it through our diet (or our skincare). This is what’s known as an essential vitamin. [1]
What does Niacinamide do?
In topical skincare (applied to the skin), niacinamide is found in many products, from serum to hand soap. In general, topical niacinamide is helpful for repairing damage – whether it’s signs of sun damage, acne spots, inflammation, rosacea or uneven skin tone. [2]
There’s a lot of research to back up these benefits, with studies suggesting it may also improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. [3]
We’ll discuss ideal concentrations of niacinamide in skincare products further down.
Benefits of Niacinamide
Repairs and Strengthens your Skin
Niacinamide can help improve keratin production in the skin. A healthy supply of keratin keeps your skin barrier intact and helps improve skin texture over time. Your skin is your largest organ, and your body’s first line of defence from environmental damage. Therefore, niacinamide not only makes your skin look healthier, but also enhances your protection. [4]
Boosts Skin Elasticity
Niacinamide helps speed up the production of ceramides in our skin, which is important in keeping your skin’s moisture – especially if you have dry skin. Ceramides keep our skin barrier healthy and functioning. [4]
Imagine your skin cells as stacked bricks, with ceramides acting as the mortar that holds them together. Unlike traditional mortar, which is hard and dry, ceramides are made of moisture-rich lipids. This moisture helps keep your skin barrier firm, supple and intact.
More ceramides mean more moisture in your skin, bringing plenty of benefits. It helps skin heal more quickly, makes fine lines and wrinkles less visible, and supports sensitive skin by making it less likely to get irritated. [5]
You’ll also find hydrating serums with both niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, like our Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid + Vit B5 Serum. Hyaluronic acid works synergistically with ceramides to enhance moisture retention, resulting in healthier, plumper skin.
Reduces Inflammation
Niacinamide is effective at reducing redness or inflammation from conditions like acne and rosacea. [6]
Regulates Oil Production
Niacinamide helps control how much sebum (the oily substance) your skin makes and this can reduce the appearance of enlarged pores. For those with oiler skin, less sebum means fewer blotting papers or pressed powder touch-ups throughout the day. [6]
Treats Pigmentation
Dark spots can recur and are often stubborn to treat. Using niacinamide may help slow down and prevent cells called melanosomes from transporting melanin (your skin’s pigment) to your skin’s outer layer, with research showing significant improvement to pigmentation after using a moisturiser containing niacinamide.
If used regularly, niacinamide can help reduce dark spots and even out your skin tone. However, it is worth knowing that niacinamide works slowly on the skin so it is better as a supporting ingredient rather than a primary one. This is why niacinamide is often added with other powerful ingredients like Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) or Kojic acid as a booster. [7]
What % Niacinamide Should You Look For?
The right percentage of niacinamide for you will depend on the condition you’re targeting and the skincare formulation itself. As a guide, these are the science-backed concentrations of niacinamide you may want to look for.
Treating Hyperpigmentation with 2-5% Niacinamide
Combined with daily broad-spectrum sunscreen, concentrations of 2-5% can help fade areas of dark spots and hyperpigmentation to promote a more even skin tone. [8,9]
Treating Acne with 4% Niacinamide
Clinical evidence showed 4% niacinamide was a powerful anti-inflammatory for treating acne vulgaris. [6] Niacinamide also mixes well with other active ingredients such as Adapalene and Benzoyl peroxide in treating acne.
Fading Fine Lines, Wrinkles and Skin Ageing with 5% Niacinamide
At 5% strengths, niacinamide has shown very promising results at reducing fine lines and wrinkles. So if your main skin goals are to tackle sun damage or other signs of ageing, 5% niacinamide could be a good option for you.
You won’t usually need to go much higher than 5% as more isn’t more for niacinamide. Using or combining very high concentrations of niacinamide with other active ingredients can risk a skin reaction or irritation. [9]
How to choose a Niacinamide Skincare Product
Speaking of skincare routines, as you can probably tell – we’re big supporters of the benefits of niacinamide for many different skin concerns.
As long as you stay at 10% niacinamide or below, it can offer many benefits for acne, hyperpigmentation and visible UV damage with almost no side effects.
As part of a Dermatica treatment plan, subscribers can reach out to us from their dashboard to ask our dermatology experts about a specific product such as the following:
– Does it treat your skin condition?
– Are the ingredients evidence based?
– Is the concentration backed by research?
– Will it suit your skin type?
– Does it fit in your current skincare routine?
This isn’t the full list, but it gives you an idea of the important things you should know when adding a new product to your skincare routine. You can also find out what formulas we recommend for your skin by visiting our website.
References
1. Wohlrab J, Kreft D. Niacinamide – Mechanisms of Action and Its Topical Use in Dermatology. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. 2014;27(6):311–5.
2. Zhen AX, Piao MJ, Kang KA, Fernando PDSM, Kang HK, Koh YS, et al. Niacinamide Protects Skin Cells from Oxidative Stress Induced by Particulate Matter. Biomolecules & Therapeutics. 2019 Nov 1;27(6):562–9.
Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Niacinamide: A B Vitamin that Improves Aging Facial Skin Appearance. Dermatologic Surgery. 2006 Mar 21;31:860–6.
3. Gehring W. Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology [Internet]. 2004 Apr;3(2):88–93. Available from: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17147561/
4. Meckfessel MH, Brandt S. The structure, function, and importance of ceramides in skin and their use as therapeutic agents in skin-care products. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology [Internet]. 2014 Jul 1;71(1):177–84. Available from: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0190962214010226
5. Marques C, Hadjab F, Porcello A, Lourenço K, Scaletta C, Abdel-Sayed P, et al. Mechanistic Insights into the Multiple Functions of Niacinamide: Therapeutic Implications and Cosmeceutical Applications in Functional Skincare Products. Antioxidants [Internet]. 2024 Apr 1;13(4):425. Available from: https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3921/13/4/425
6. Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J, Chhoa M, Matsubara A, Miyamoto K, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. The British Journal of Dermatology [Internet]. 2002 Jul 1;147(1):20–31. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12100180
7. Navarrete-Solís J, Castanedo-Cázares JP, Torres-Álvarez B, Oros-Ovalle C, Fuentes-Ahumada C, González FJ, et al. A Double-Blind, Randomized Clinical Trial of Niacinamide 4% versus Hydroquinone 4% in the Treatment of Melasma. Dermatology Research and Practice. 2011;2011:1–5.
Mustufa Jafry, Guan LL, Mohammad TF. A practical guide to over‐the‐counter treatments for hyperpigmentation. JEADV clinical practice. 2024 Feb 21;